I want to start recurve target archery. What weight should I use and why? Also, any bow recommendations?

archery
JoeyD asked:


Also, I want to stay inexpensive and have the option of hunting with the bow. I was looking at the Hoyt Gamemaster. Anyone have any recommendations.

I would prefer people with experience to answer. That is why I would appreciate it if you could explain why you choose that weight.

I am 17 years old and of capable of drawing a 65 pound recurve already.

…Thanks for the answers…

  • Rob posted: 28 Oct at 10:07 pm

    Drawing a 65# recurve and holding one for a few seconds are two entirely different things. I’m 53 years old and shoot a 55# Bear I bought at a yard sale for $20. I have a 45# (the minimum for hunting in many states) Ward’s recurve that I bought cheaper and like better, I have a 60″ 35# (The absolute minimum for hunting in some states) shakespeare that I love and shoot more than the rest. I also have a50# hickory primative. Check the state laws where you live and find out what the minum weight to hunt is. The right arrow from a 35# bow through the lungs or heart will beat the right arrow from a 65# bow in the butt every time. Releasing arrows from a 35# or 40# bow at full draw with good form will help you to do the right thing with a heavier bow when you start using it. You can pick up a 30 year old recurve that is perfectly functional for 10% to 20% of the cost of a new one, but many are trash. Do not buy one you can’t touch unless you can afford to throw the money away. Do not buy anything chipped, cracked, twisted, splintered, slightly bent or needing any repair. You just cannot fix it.!!! Search traditional and primative archery. Find a 3d range. Have fun. Good luck. Rob

  • targetbutt posted: 01 Nov at 7:15 am

    I have quite a few 13 year olds at the range that can draw back a 50 pound bow. Can they shoot the bow though? That’s a different thing altogether. Here’s the most surefire way of finding out if the poundage is for you. The procedure will take time, but it really is the most accurate, measurable, and repeatable way to determine if the bow is too much. Take that 65 pound bow, get some arrows that are tuned for that bow. Take a 20 pound bow and get some arrows that are tuned for that 20 pound bow. Now get some FITA or NFAA target and shoot 3 rounds of 30 arrows with each poundage. Get the averages, if your average is the same for the 20 pound as it is with the 65 pound then the 65 pound is ok to use. But if your average goes down with the 65 pound one, that means you’re overbowed.

    For hunting, I actually would start you with a 35 pound bow. Get some work done with that, then move up to 45.

    BTW, Joey I had just noticed you saying you’re trying to get into target archery. How serious of a target shooting will you be doing? Are you thinking about competing? Because that will change everything. If you want to compete, you need to get yourself started with something very light. Form and good clean execution is everything in target archery. Most people making the switch from compound or barebow into target archery will need to cut their poundage. You first need to know what poundage you’re comfortable with when you’re shooting barebow or your compound, then cut that by half.