How do you determine draw weight and draw length for archery?
“Big Guns Upstairs” asked:
I’m thinking of buying a custom bow and I need to know how you determine draw weight percentage and draw length.
I’m thinking of buying a custom bow and I need to know how you determine draw weight percentage and draw length.
Thanks
Not modern bows. I’m talking about the ol’ hickory wood bows.
I’m very new to this. So I really don’t know many of the terminologies needed to know. The main purpose is to display, but I would like to learn how to shoot. I hold bows with my left hand. If you know of any dealers in Oregon, that would be great. Also, if any training courses are availible in Oregon, that would be great.
T F posted: 26 Oct at 5:10 pm
The dealer who carries the bows will measure your draw length with a special measuring arrow
draw weight is up to you and what is comfortable - most bows are adjustable from 50-70 lb draw weight.
If you want a good bow - look at Martin bows
suro25 posted: 29 Oct at 2:02 am
Take your bow to a dealer and they can tell you the draw weight. the draw weight is the pounds being pulled back. and the length of the draw is measured from the riser to the anchor point when the bow is at full draw.
suro
rooshooter24 posted: 01 Nov at 4:59 am
take it in, chronograph and or its on the bow under the grip
wingshooter08 posted: 02 Nov at 12:21 am
Draw weight is what you can comfortbaly draw, length is determined by you arms. You want a good one see the PSE Firestorm Lite! Most compunds are adjustable between 50-70 lbs!
Injun posted: 04 Nov at 7:12 am
Draw weight - The poundage you can draw with out strain and hold comfortably at full draw!
Draw length - The distance from your true anchor point to a specific point on the rest itself + 1/2″ to 3/4″ for head clearance.A draw length bow will be used to get a starting length but you will need your bow set up with a rest to get your true draw length!
Now to finish draw weight percentages are preformed by the amount of “let off” a given bow has because of wheel or cam designs.Sometimes refered to as “letoff” or “break point” this is were the design of the bow allows the full draw weight to drop off because of design lowering the full draw weight of up to 80% on some bows! ie: 70 dw with 80% lo = about 14 holding pounds at full draw!
Ok! Just go to pro shop find bow of choice that fits your draw length now draw a bow back with minimal poudage to start and go from there!
They can order you a specific bow or can find u a place to buy one online!
Are u a finger or tab shooter?Do you shoot straight in line stance or squared?I learned to shoot with a somewhat of a squared stance which shortens my darw length by 1.5″ but this is just me!
archerdude posted: 05 Nov at 6:01 am
Good question, and it deserves a good answer. I’ll try to keep my answer as non-technical as I can, while giving as complete an answer as possible.
Draw weight is the amount of force required to pull the bowstring back to a specified distance, from its “relaxed” position; it is also the amount of force imparted to the arrow upon release of the bowstring.
Draw length is the distance from the bowstring, at full draw, to the BACK of the arrow point — usually immediately behind the second knuckle (counting from where the finger meets the hand) of the index finger on the bow hand. Full draw is achieved when the bowstring is at the “anchor point”, which is the place the archer CONSISTENTLY pulls the bowstring to. If your anchor point is 30 inches from the back of the arrow point, your draw length is 30 inches.
But wait, there’s more: Draw weight is calculated at a set distance of 28 inches, so if your draw length is shorter or longer than this your draw weight will be different. For each inch difference in draw length, there is a 2 1/2 pound difference in draw weight: For a bow with a 50 pound draw weight @ 28 inches, a draw length of 30 inches means that bow will have a draw weight of 55 pounds. Conversely, a draw length of 25 inches would mean a draw weight of only 42 1/2 pounds.
So, when you order that custom bow, be sure to tell the bowyer what your personal draw length is and how much draw weight you can handle (for this, you need to actually try some bows. Please see the included link for some extremely useful information regarding how much poundage is “enough”). When you get arrows for that new bow, you will need to let your fletcher (that’s the person who makes the arrows) know what kind of bow it is, the draw weight, the draw length and whether or not the bow is a “center shot” (has a “shelf” to rest the arrow on) or “off the hand” (does not have a “shelf” for the arrow) type, as well as what kind of arrow you want (aluminum, carbon or wood; if wood, what kind of wood - cedar is the most common wood for arrows).
For information on where to learn archery, I have included a couple of links below. The first one is for sending e-mail to a person who is called “The An Tir Royal Archer” (if you use this one, do NOT call the person “Your Highness” or “Your Majesty”. I don’t think they have that rank). “An Tir” is a part of The Society for Creative Anachronisms, Inc. — SCA for short — and Oregon is part of “An Tir”. The second is for “TradGang”, a forum for people interested in traditional archery, including hunting with traditional archery gear.
I hope my answer helps you with what you needed to know. May all your arrows find their mark!